* The itinerary depends on your skill level, speed, overall endurance and current weather conditions.
Day 1
Morning:
Assessment and revision of your trad-climbing skills: leading on double rope, placing gear, setting up anchors on multiple points, abseiling.
Afternoon:
You will lead a 4 pitch route with grade up to 6a to practice:
- gear placements (between bolts)
- setting up anchors on gear (at least 3 points)
- setting up a personal abseil stations with the least amount of gear
- demonstration on abseiling technics from very unstable anchors
Day 2
Morning:
You will lead a 3 pitch route with grade up to 6a to practice:
- multi-pitch climbing on single rope
- gear placements (between bolts)
- hauling up gear with pulley systems
- abseiling with Gri Gri on single rope + rap line
- simultaneous abseiling on Gri Gri on counterweight
Afternoon:
Demonstration and practice of effective algorithms of descent with an injured partner below us (conscious or not). Practice of effective ways of critical first aid with climbing gear (prevent bleedings; immobilizing limbs etc). Practice of different means of evacuation depending on conditions:
- simultaneous descent of the party
- abseiling on ropes already on tension
- abseiling with the partner attached to you
- lowering on connected ropes
- rescue technic for unconscious leader
Day 3
Morning:
You will lead a 3 pitch route with grade up to 6a to practice:
- gear placements (between bolts)
- fixing lines with minimum gear
Afternoon:
Movement on fixed ropes up and down with minimum or specialized equipment, passing a knot during ascend or descend.
Day 4
Morning:
You will lead a 4 pitch route with grade up to 6a to practice:
- fastest ways to manage bolt anchors
- gear placements (between bolts)
- best algorithms for changing leadership
- best algorithms for multiple abseils
Afternoon:
Lecture on the specialized gear for technical aid climbing (sky hooks, bird beaks, copper heads, ladders, fifi hooks, pitons etc.). Demonstration and practice of technics for technical aid climbing using the gear listed above. Work with hammer and pitons.
Day 5
Morning:
Ascent of Central Wall /260-430m/.
Afternoon:
Revision of the course and further practice of technics of your choice.
*Optional: Setting up a hanging bivouac – hammock / portaledge.