And out of a sudden, the stunning geometry of a specific peak pierced my mind.
Almost 500 meters of trad climbing up to 6b, executed on a flawless granite, took us to the top of the most renowned granite spire in Europe - Aiguille Dibona.
It is undoubtedly the most coveted mountain in the Massif des Ecrins. To be specific - its very symbol. When you first see it passing through the Soreiller gorges your eyes fall imprisoned to the shape of the spire. Your gaze just can't resist the direction of the peak where two strict contours scarred in the sky are aiming for the summit.. So specific and yet genuinly simple as if drawn by a kid.
Maybe that's why the climbing experience there felt so familiar and childlike. How could it have been different? A perfect geometry of granite towering amidst a fairytale landscape.
Gaston Rebuffat himself wrote about Dibona:
"This needle is a monument of stone given to mankind by the earth and the time, an extraordinary sculpture in the sky, the light and the silence of Oisans. The same achievements of the climbers on an other mountain would not be so marvellous. This needle was a question, climbing on it a response".
Aiguille Dibona - the sharp substitute of Petit Dru
Last week's thundery weather interfered with our plan to climb the Dru traverse. Petit Dru - the summit known as a 'Shot in the Sky' needed a substitute that matched the poetic description...